Tokyo is known as a food-crazed city, maybe even the most food-crazed on earth—but you have to go underground to find the really good stuff. At your average depachika (department store basement food hall), there are more than 30,000 items for sale. These stores function like bustling food cathedrals where you can find everything from sushi-grade hamachi to $150 muskmelons, and endless free samples. At Takashimaya Times Square, there are more than 70 kinds of salt, a vinegar sommelier, and 120 fo
